The Bixiga neighborhood in central São Paulo, Brazil, sits atop the Saracura river, which has borne witness to intertwined indigenous, Afro-Brazilian, and ecological histories that are anything but past. As an indigenous settlement, a quilombo and a sprawling concrete jungle, Bixiga resists through culture. Its theaters, samba, rituals, and ways of living are steeped in the vitality and majesty of a centuries-long battle against colonial, extractive, and hegemonic forces.

Now, Radio Saracura transmits the voices and appeals of the neighborhood’s inhabitants, speaking with indigenous leaders, geographers, anthropologists, and choreographers. Through the crackle of FM radio static, we catch glimpses of Bixiga’s shrines, courtyards and terreiros—and hear the rushing gurgle of the Saracura river itself.